How to Build an Embossed Metal Planter: Overview

Time	Cost	Skill Level: Moderate
1 hour	$50 to over $350, depending on size and features of the ceiling fan	It's like wrapping a present only with sharp paper, and nails instead of tape.

The patterns in most old metal ceilings were stamped in a tic-tac-toe formation, but instead of Xs and Os, the same floral or geometric design was repeated in each quadrant. To sheath a wooden planter box, I used salvaged tiles in just such a grid with four 6-by 6-inch squares stacked one on top of the other and 12 across. Working from those dimensions, I cut the box's wooden sides so the metal would fold neatly around its four corners. I left a 6-inch reveal at the top so I could tuck and nail the last layer of metal squares inside the box for a finished look. To guard against rot and insect damage, I built the planter out of 1/2-inch pressure-treated plywood and inserted a plastic liner. Read on for the step-by-step.

Tools for This Project

Tape measure
Speed square
Jigsaw with coarse, wood-cutting blade
4-foot pipe clamps
Drill/driver fitted with 1/8-inch bit
Safety glasses
Paintbrushes
Shovel
Steel rake
4-foot level
Utility scissors
Staple gun

Supplies You Will Need

Four 8-foot pressure-treated 2x12s
Two 8-foot pressure-treated 1x6 decking boards
1/2-inch pressure-treated plywood
2x4 wood block
Steering-wheel cover
No. 10 deck screws
Two drawer handles
Two sets of stainless-steel butt hinges
Latex exterior stain
Latex exterior paint
Landscape fabric
20 bags of natural sand

Overview

This project is a bit challenging, so older kids may want to help build it with the younger ones. Pressure-treated lumber is heavy and requires a few strong bodies to carry it. Plus there are several parts that all have to come together like a jigsaw puzzle. The "car" has four sides and a seat and supports all built from 2x12s. Then thinner 1x6 decking forms the dashboard and hood, which opens to reveal storage. Inside the box, landscape fabric lines the bottom and sides to keep weeds from growing up through the sand. The sand used to fill the box is a special debris-free soft sand sold as "natural sand" or "playground sand."

The best way to build this box is to assemble it first in a workspace, such as your garage, then park it on a level spot outside. But before you even cut the wood, you'll need to support the big pieces on blocks or sawhorses. Never cut between two supported pieces or your saw blade will bind up; instead, make sure the piece you're cutting off can fall freely. And since the large 2x12s used for this project are so thick, you'll need to drill pilot holes anywhere you will be screwing parts together. You'll also need to clamp plywood pieces to a worktable before cutting them.

Step by Step

1. Lay out and cut the parts

Using a jigsaw guided by a Speed square, trim two 2x12 boards to even 8-foot lengths for the sides. Then shape the tail fins by cutting off one end of each side piece at a 15-degree angle, making the end come to a point.

Cut one 2x12 into two 48-inch pieces for the grille and the seat; cut the other into two 45-inch pieces for the back and the center crosspiece. Cut the 1x6 decking into four 48-inch pieces for the hood. Using the measurements shown here or the handy templates, lay out and cut notches on the sides (to represent doors) and on the ends of one decking piece (to make the dashboard). Also cut a 2x4 block from a piece of scrap wood.
2. Drill pilot holes

Stand the side pieces on edge, with the door notches facing up. Fit the back piece on edge between the sides. Position it so that its back edge is in line with the lower corner of the tail fin; the top point of the tail fin should stick out past the back piece.

Using a square, make sure the back piece is perfectly vertical. Then mark the sides to indicate where the back piece lines up.

Lay the sides down on the table. Using a drill/driver fitted with a 1/8-inch bit, bore three pilot holes along the marks on each piece.
3. Assemble the sandbox

Stand the sides up again and line up the back piece between them.

Hold the pieces together with pipe clamps.

Screw through the sides at the pilot holes into the ends of the back piece, using deck screws.

Position scrap blocks inside the box's front corners.

Drill pilot holes through the sides at the front, then screw the sides to the blocks.

Put the grille across the front of the box. Attach it by drilling pilot holes, then screwing it to the blocks.

Screw the seat on top of the back of the box in the same manner.

Hey, Kids! You can help out by holding the pieces of wood together so they don't wobble.
4. Make the dashboard

Continuing to drill pilot holes first as you go, screw the center crosspiece between the sides, 16½ inches from the front edge.

Stand the notched dashboard up vertically, and line it up with a piece of decking laid over the cross piece.

Screw the dashboard to the back of the crosspiece.
5. Finish the hood

Screw a piece of decking on top of the crosspiece in front of the dashboard.

Lay two hinges on the decking, about 8 inches in from the ends. Position them so the wrap over the edge, with one leaf is on the decking top and the other hanging over the front.

Lay another piece of decking on top to hold the hinges in place.

Screw the front leaves of the hinges to the edge of the first piece of decking.

Lift the second piece of decking and flip the hinges out from under it.

Now line up the second piece again so the unattached hinge leaves fit flush against the edge. Screw the hinges to the second piece so it can flip open and closed.

Attach the last piece of decking in the same manner, except attach the hinge leaves to the inside edge of the grille and the underside of the decking.
6. Cut out the steering wheel

Save the plastic or cardboard holer that the wheel cover came on so it can be a template for your steering wheel.

Place it on a piece of ½-inch plywood and trace around it.

Clamp the plywood to the worktable.

Using a jigsaw, cut out the steering wheel; you will have to stop in the middle of the cut to unclamp the plywood and turn it around so you can finish.
7. Paint the car

Stain the sandbox red inside and out. Also stain the plywood steering wheel and the 4x4 block.

Using a compass, draw wheels at the back end of the sides, with hubcaps inside them.

Draw headlights and the grille on the front of the sandbox.

Paint the wheels black the headlights, grille and hubcaps silver.
8. Position the sandbox

While the sandbox dries, find a level spot of ground where it can go. If necessary, dig out an area until it is level, then rake it smooth.

Put the sandbox on the cleared spot of ground. Using a 4-foot level, check that the sandbox is level in both directions; if it isn't, rake or dig the ground underneath until it is.

To Parents: The sandbox is quite heavy and may require two or three adults to carry it.
9. Line the inside with landscape fabric

Unroll a piece of landscape fabric and cut it long enough to fit along the bottom of the sandbox and up the sides. You will need two pieces to cover the width of the box.

Line the bottom with of the box with the fabric.

Using a staple gun, attach the fabric a few inches up the sides. Tuck the fabric into the corners so it won't rip when you put in the sand.
10. Add sand

Fill the box with natural sand.

Using a metal rake, smooth the sand until its level.
11. Put on the steering wheel

Fit the wheel cover around the plywood steering wheel.

Screw the 2x4 block to the dashboard where the steering wheel will go.

Screw the wheel to the block through the center, using a washer between the two so the wheel can pivot.
12. Put on the handles

Attach the two handles to the hinged decking pieces so they face each other and look like a hood ornament.
13. Start playing

Grab your digging toys, and hit the road!